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Cities and Towns of the Central Cascades
by Anne Maxwell
It was Father's Day, Jack's and my first hike for the season, my first hike since moving permanently to Seattle, and the snowmelt was a month behind its usual schedule due to record snowfall this past winter. Our party of four wanted something that would not be overly strenuous, and accessible without snowshoes. For an enjoyable family get together, an easy drive away from the "big smog" of Seattle; trail no. 1039 fit the bill. This is the Talapus Lake - Olallie Lake Trail on the western side of the Cascades, just off Interstate Highway 90. It is partly in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area, so we needed a wilderness permit, which we purchased at the Texaco Service station at North Bend.
In all we probably saw 20-30 people on the trail, many who looked like they were also on Father's Day outings. Some families were even coming in as we were coming out in mid-afternoon. The 16 hours of daylight at this time of year make this a great outing to follow a leisurely brunch. And you don't need to travel far to be rewarded with some wonderful countryside. We gave ourselves the option of seeing how we felt about continuing onto Olallie Lake, and as it turned out we were content to stay around Talapus Lake, a round trip of about 2 hours unhurried hiking.
The trail begins on an old logging road where it is quite easy to walk two abreast. "Serious" single file hiking is soon required as the trail narrows and rises up the mountain in a series of gentle switchbacks. I was wondering about the way each curve of the switchbacks seemed to continue as a short "false" trail, which required small efforts by the trail makers to indicate these were not to be followed. Later when "nature called" and I made use of one of these false trails, I developed my own theory of the process behind their formation!
We came to the Alpine Wilderness Area at much the same time as we hit the snow level. It was perhaps this combination that gave me the feeling I had crossed an invisible threshold into a place imbued with some kind of magic. The melting blanket of snow, now at about three to four feet deep, led the eye on a flowing dance over mounds and around whorls at the bases of trees. Negotiating the contours of the snow cover provided just enough of a challenge that I could feel a slight thrill about making it over this landscape, without ever feeling uncomfortably anxious. The trail encounters the rushing Talapus Creek, and the narrow, three foot high bridge of snow upon the bridge was quite a treat to see and cross.
The passing of others before us meant the snow trail was quite easy to follow. There was still enough of the snow pack for it to be mostly a case of walking on a solid terrain rather than slush, but I was very glad to have my feet snug in waterproofed hiking boots. The ski pole provided by Jack's son Brian also made the going a lot easier. If you know you will be encountering similar conditions, I definitely recommend finding a suitable stick on the way up, if you haven't brought such an item with you.
Brian and Marcia chose our lunch site from the many possibilities around the lake. Here we started to see more signs of human life, including campers. The tameness of the wildlife indicates there have been many before us, and it gave this American-wilderness newbie a real delight. We had barely got our food out of our packs when a "camp robber" bird (probably a gray jay) perched expectantly near us. I was delighted when it swooped to take a crumb from my fingers. But my favorites were the chipmunks, which were also tame enough to feed by hand. At one point we had three darting around us, looking very comical when their little faces popped up over someone's boot or backpack.
Settled on the east side of the lake, we could take in the gorgeous reflection of Bandera Mountain, which seemed to dissolve slightly then reappear with the coming and going of light rain. And we could look past reflections into the clear, clear water to see the ghostly shapes of logs and branches, lying so still in their watery grave. We had the opportunity to contemplate the weight of snow still lying on the soggy ground, and the signs of old landslides on the mountain above. Under the pine tree we were unbothered by the rain, and as one of our party of four said, "This is why so many choose to live in Seattle. All this so close by."
(c) Go Northwest! Photos by Brian High
Best selection of books on the Northwest.
Day Hike! Central Cascades: The Best Trails You Can Hike in a Day by Mike McQuaide. This revised edition contains 69 complete trail descriptions, crucial information estimated hiking time, permits required, special notes on dogs and kids, and double-checked driving directions. The book also contains easy-to-read USGS topographical maps, informative photographs and discusses all changes made to the trails, and who to contact about the most recent reconstructions. Order now...
Day Hiking: Central Cascades by Craig Romano, Author and Alan Baue, Photographer. This book includes 50% more hikes than other regional guidebooks and focuses on cream-of-the-crop trails in these areas. Compact in size, this is the most up-to-date guide for the area, organized along highways and other travel corridors, with an emphasis on trails that are 12 miles or less. Order now...
Washington's Central Cascades Fishing Guide by Dave Shorett. This comprehensive guidebook tells where, how and when to fish the area in detail, covering more than 25 streams and 200 lakes, with 14 maps and 40 photos. Trout populations are described in depth, along with fishing techniques, access and hiking directions. Order now...
Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume II by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. Features 100 routes, including top favorite sport and crag climbing areas. Illustrated throughout with black and white photographs, several with route overlays. Highlights fun, quality climbs for all skill levels. Order now...
Moon Washington, 9th Edition. by Ericka Chickowski. From urban cities to rural towns, this native gives an insider's perspective on everything the Evergreen State has to offer featuring great places to eat, scenic drives and volunteer vacations. Discover Seattle's arts and culture, climbing Mt. Rainier, sleeping in a train car near Elbe and much more. Order now...
Frommer's Washington State. by Karl Samson. In this detailed and completely up-to-date guide, you'll find great places to stay in every price range: sleek Seattle business hotels, romantic coastal inns, historic B&Bs, family-friendly motels, rustic cabins, and more. Order now...
Hidden Washington: Including Seattle, Puget Sound, San Juan Islands, Olympic Peninsula, Cascades and Columbia River Gorge (Hidden Travel) by Eric Lucas. This author gets to know each community by going from neighborhood to neighborhood. This book will take you to all the great spots while describing both the famous attractions and hidden favorites. Order now...
Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (Cascade Alpine Guide) by Fred Beckey. This Mountaineer book contains everything needed to know for climbing the Cascade Mountains including maps, geographic aspects, safety and more. Order now...
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