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Travel Article
Leavenworth: A Town with Style
by
Anne Marie Maxwell
If Highway US2 is your chosen route over the
Cascade Mountains, you are bound to slow down, with a lot of
head turning, as you pass the town of Leavenworth. In
fact you will probably come to a complete stop, to more thoroughly enjoy the spectacle of
a classically Bavarian-styled village in its alpine setting, complete with Tudor-work,
window boxes and medieval decorations. The sight is a welcome respite from the usual
architectural designs and signage seen from the highways. Even the gas stations are in on the act with their prices per gallon
announced in gothic lettering.
There is nothing historically
"Germanic" about Leavenworth; what you see here is all about visual
association. Local business people looking to revitalize the town were reminded of
villages in Germany, situated like themselves, against a backdrop of alpine
mountains. And so the small timber town was transformed visually and
economically. Decades of redevelopment, which still continues, has
been done with an eye to detail and quality, avoiding the pitfall of cheap
kitsch, and achieving a very picturesque town. Leavenworth is
a piece of unabashed fantasy, and if you accept this town in the spirit with which it
offers itself, the experience will be an enjoyable one.
If browsing through
gift shops is your thing, allow an easy day to get through them all.
Along with a selection of quality arts and crafts, Germanic gifts fill the
specialty shops. You will be in seventh heaven, if you are a
collector of beer steins, cuckoo clocks or
nutcrackers. If you are new to the nutcracker game, marvel that a
good specimen might set you back anywhere between $60 to $6,000 dollars,
and that nary a nut will be cracked by these valued ornaments. In
the music box shop, be sure to ask for a demonstration of the huge
rosewood grand-daddy of music boxes - the sound is quite remarkable.
If by now you have worked up an appetite, you can seek out a dining experience
of sauerkraut and strudel, consumed to the hearty rhythm of German folk music. There is also large
assortment of restaurants offering non-German fare.
Beyond cuckoo clocks and curlicues, it is more than possible to get
rugged and work up a sweat in the vicinity of Leavenworth. A 2.5-mile loop, accessible
for walking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter, goes through Riverfront Park, Blackbird Island, and Enchantment
Park. The trailhead is south on Ninth Street. In winter, the
trail is extended with groomed cross-country skiing trails on the golf
course. You will find these trails are
shared by a population of deer. The town makes a comfortable base from which to explore the
surrounding mountains encompassed by Wenatchee National Forest. Get details on
more hiking, or cross-country skiing
opportunities from the Leavenworth Ranger Station, the
Wenatchee
Forest Service Ranger Station, or the Leavenworth
Visitor's
Center. Other outdoor services abound. In summer go white
water rafting. In winter take a sleigh ride, or try out the Leavenworth
Ski Hill.
Exploring the surrounding valley need not be a strenuous task. It
is well worth driving beyond Main Street with its shops, to take in the
scenery behind the town. (See
map.)
On US2, drive west of the town center, and take Icicle Road to
the south, past the renown Sleeping Lady
Conference and Music Center, and at least as far as the
National
Fish Hatchery, which raises chinook salmon. The road continues into the forest
where there are about 8 campgrounds. Turn back, then drive along
East Leavenworth Road for more scenery. Around the township you
will find some fine private residences. As encouraged by local
ordinances, some continue the Bavarian theme with panache. Nice
examples can be found along Alpensee Strasse off US2 past Alpine Rivers
Inn.
As if all this weren't enough, Leavenworth strives to entertain its
visitors. The focal point for activities is Front Street Park, which
functions like a European town square. If your timing is good, in
summer you will see marching bands, arts and craft
shows, concerts in the Bavarian bandstand, storytellers, or strolling
musicians. In winter you might see ice-carving, or a dog sled
competition. On the snow covered version of the park, we found families out with
their toboggans on the small slope until way after nightfall.
To make Leavenworth a part of your experience you might take a break here after
traveling eastwards over Stevens pass. Or perhaps stay overnight in order to travel
the Pass in daylight hours when going westwards to the coast. See our
suggested driving tour.
There are plenty of lodgings in and around
Leavenworth, but be sure to book ahead
in summer, and holiday weekends. |
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